Winter Swell

The line up.
Image

This time of year, it’s cold and the wind is icy. Getting out of bed is a mission, getting up for a wave before dawn almost unthinkable. On the south coast of Australia, Winter is wave time. It starts in late Autumn when the Easter swells turn on and the water only gets colder and less crowded after the Bells Pro.

Image

If the Bells car park is packed, you can bet the water will be too.

The water was so cold, I got brain freeze duck diving. The waves were beautiful, clean and steel grey. It’s weird how the colour of the water can make a place you’ve surfed a hundred times before seem scary.

Big teal mountains like steam trains, roaring toward you.

Paddling towards a set and seeing an even bigger teal mountain rising behind it and an even bigger one behind that. The same grey colour as the sky, so you can’t really tell how big it is.

I took some photos of the water after I got out, but they didn’t give it justice.

Image

This picture shows exactly what it looked like.

(I found this picture on wannasurf.com)

Half a Uterus.

I’m on the internet a lot. People think my job is hanging out on Facebook and Twitter and finding hilarious things for them to laugh at. I won’t go into it now (get excited about lots of work talk later) but that’s not all I do. Some times, when the mood strikes me, I enter a competition. That’s right kids, when you are on the pulse of social media, you can win free stuff, which is awesome. Because everyone loves free stuff.Image

 Anyway, the sole reason I entered this competition was because they asked me to send an email with the subject title ‘Half A Uterus’. It was an awesome tagline and because the person who was running the competition sounded hilarious and someone I would probably enjoy. I entered.  

Image 

Berrima Internment Camp

Prisoner at Berrima Internment Camp enjoying his hand made boat

At the outbreak of the First World War, nationals of countries at war with Australia were labelled ‘enemy aliens’.
With official concerns that they threatened national security, enemy nationals were put into internment camps across Australia.

I conducted a series of interviews about the Berrima Internment camp which became the following audio feature. It was broadcast on SBS Hungarian program and introduced by Kata Kiss

http://www.sbs.com.au/podcasts/player/embed/id/142547

Berrima Internment Camp

The photos I like best are like snapshots taken with your eyes.

My dear friend Josh Croggon took this photo when he stayed with me.

This is the view from my window in London.
I never hear any birds here, only in the very early hours of the morning around 3am can I start to hear them sing. 

This snapshot was taken before I left Australia.
This isn’t my bed or my house.
(Although I did sleep here.)
Its just a beautiful memory that makes me feel happy and reminds me of summer.

When I think of Home I think of the ocean.
My friends and I wake up at dawn to go surfing. We drive down the coast and wiggle into our cold wetsuits.  There is nothing better than paddling out and watching the sun rise.

Why Blog?

It gets to the stage when you need to stop scribbling in notebooks and start ‘taking things seriously’.

This is my first attempt at  ‘serious’ and to be honest I plan on taking a few creative liberties.
I edit, report, find and photograph.
I write stories for children and for adults who used to be children.
I try my hand at poetry.
I am a self confessed people watcher.